They probably won't rust out on you, but chances are you maybe interested in replacing the stock mufflers and exhaust tips for something that sounds a little throatier and has more sparkle to the chrome.  If you are interested the modification - then let Ron guide you through the process of installing a Borla rear exhaust section ...
Note:  Always use caution when working with a hot exhaust system.  Allow at least one hour to cool if the vehicle has been recently driven and always remember to wear eye protection when working under a vehicle.  Gravity likes making things fall in our eyes !!  If the opportunity presents itself - a penetrating spray lubricant should be applied to all exhaust system fasteners for a substantial period of time prior to removal of the old system so that the chemicals in the spray can lubricate threads for easier nut removal.  More time is spent removing the old system than spent installing the new one.

The underside of the car looking towards the rear.  The end of the H-pipe is visible where the clamps are located on either side of the transmission.  The underside of the stock mufflers can be seen at the rear of the vehicle.
The stock and replacement muffler assemblies are both supported by hangers which pass through rubber isolators.  The isolators are attached to a rear frame member of the car.
 Close up of a hanger passing through the rubber isolator.
The clamps joining the rear of the H-pipe to the factory-over-axle pipe are spot welded to the H assembly.  A spacer fits into the clamp over the bolt and a half round spacer fits between the nut and the clamp to prevent over tightening.
First step in the removal process is to loosen the clamps located ahead of the mufflers near the transmission.  With loosen clamps, the over-axle pipes could be pulled free from the H pipe.
The H pipe was held up against the car with a support and block of wood.  Borla instructions suggested removing the H pipe spring hangers visible at the very top of the picture, however, it was found that leaving them in place during the process did not cause any interference.
Next step is to remove the 15mm nuts holding the flanges  of the H pipe just behind the catalytic converters.  Despite a good soaking of penetrating lubricant, the nuts wouldn't budge and there was a fear of twisting them right off.
Out came the heavy duty equipment.
Ron applies heat to the nuts, one at a time.  Each heated nut was in turn removed with an air socket driver.
Heating the nuts.
That's HOT !!!
Once the nuts were removed the flanges on the end of the H pipe were tapped loose and away from the bolts.
Flanges removed !  The front of the H pipe was dropped down and the gaskets - or donuts -were then removed.
Next the hangers were sprayed with lubricant to make removal from the rubber isolators more easy to accomplish.
The lubricant soaks into a hanger over the left muffler.  The mufflers were pulled towards the front of the car while the rubber isolators were pulled towards the rear.  The hangers popped out of the isolator's holes and freed the muffler.
With all hangers pulled from the isolators, the left muffler - with the over-axle pipe is removed by twisting and pulling.  Next - the right muffler is removed.  On C6 Corvettes equipped with automatic transmissions the fuel tank heat shield on the passenger's side needs to be removed.  With the standard transmission, the heat shield could be left in place.
The new Borla rear exhaust ready for installation.  The two mufflers are connected and the two over-axle pipes are attached during the installation process.

The H pipe spring hangers supported the rear of the H pipe during installation.
Prior to installing the new mufflers and over-axle pipes, Ron inspects the situation.   The front of the H-pipe is hanging down at the front of the car and the rear of the H-pipe is awaiting the new pipes.
The new mufflers have been carefully placed on the rear of the car and are supported by their hangers in the rubber isolators.  The new over-axle pipes are also in place.  Now it is time to reconnect the H pipe.
Prior to reconnection, Ron sands the end of the pipes to remove excess rust, ensuring a good seat for the gaskets.
 The old exhaust gasket is reinstalled between the flange and H pipe.
During the heating of the nuts in the removal process, the flange bolts became slightly misaligned.  Ron uses his super adjustable pliers to squeeze the bolts closer together to facilitate replacement of the flange.
New over-axle pipes are connected to the rear of the H pipe on both sides and the over-axle pipes are loosely clamped to the muffler re-using the old clamps.  Ron began a process of checking and rechecking the muffler positions and making pipe connection adjustments as necessary to ensure the hangers were properly positioned in the rubber isolators.
The exhaust tips are checked to ensure proper alignment and adjustments are made to the pipes as necessary.
Another check for alignment is made.  Once the tips were lined up, all clamp connections are snugged up - but not tightened totally.
The car was taken out for a test run to ensure that there was no rattling or rubbing noises from the exhaust system improperly contacting the car.  Everything sounded good so final tightening of clamps to 35 foot pounds was done.  The front flanges of the H pipe are tightened.
 Here Ron tightens the clamps that secure the over axle-pipe to the muffler.
The protective plastic covering the chrome tips for shipping has been removed - but they still need to be properly shone.
Looking up at the bottom of the car - the exhaust is in place and sounds good.
Like all good mechanics, Ron puts his tools away after the job.

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